We woke up quite early considering the night we’d endured. Though, we did have an over-three hour train ride to catch to get to the Italian Riviera from where we were in Tuscany.
Arriving to Firenze Santa Maria Novella station was like being in a drama. It was utterly tragic for me. This is perhaps my favorite city/ region on earth, and I was saying goodbye to her. And not knowing the next time I’d walk these streets was a terrifying reality that I hadn’t prepared myself for. To be honest, I have never been okay with leaving this wonder of a place. I looked around one last time as Mick and I sped to our platform, trying to soak up any last details of Firenze.
Then, just like that, I was on to the next adventure… I was on a train to Cinque Terre. For those of you that do not know Cinque Terre translates to five lands. Essentially, Cinque Terre is split up into five, quite tiny, villages and each one unique in its own way. The village Mick and I were staying in is called Riomaggiore, which is the southernmost village, and the cheapest. Supposedly the more north the villages are, the more fancy they are too, in others words: expensive.
We passed through Pisa to get to the Riviera and, by looks of it, through the train’s window, the city seemed vastly underwhelming. Nonetheless, we finally arrived in La Spezia Centrale train station, where we then had to change trains to get on a much smaller, local one to get to Riomaggiore’s station.
On that final train, we met a girl who seemed to be self-imploding on her high-class mode of travel. She was American and I don’t remember her name, but she had a enormous suitcase and a short, blunt haircut. And all she could do was brag to Mick and I of her travels. It was a mind-numbing conversation that I could no longer partake in, so I looked out the window.
Suddenly, we were in darkness. Well, other than the dim lights lit inside of the train, we seemed to be darkness. Only, we were in a mountain, or rather a few of them. After a few moments, there it was. The blue brilliance below us was the Ligurian Sea. And my breath caught. Wow! I thought. It was beautiful.
The train left us in front of the magnificent view. This is what we saw:

Having shown you this, know that pictures have never, and could never, do Italy any justice, but there you go.
Continuing, Mick and I took a few wrong turns until we figured out where my hostel was… Oh, did I fail to mention that dilemma of ours? Yeah, Mick did not book the hostel when I told her to book it, thus leaving her to reserve a stay nearly twenty minutes away from me, in the mountains. And there was no way I wasn’t going to stay further from the sea than I needed to be, so we schemed to smuggle her into my corner of a twelve-person bunk room.
The hostel was called Mar-Mar but it was connected to a bar called Bar O’Netto. We walked not even twenty feet down the main street of Riomaggiore until I spotted the bar. It was there that I checked-in.
Cue the umpteenth spy operation of Mick and I: I met the owner, who was an absolute legend by the way. He walked me up to the apartment that is his hostel, and gave me the full run-down. We even made some friendly conversation and that was when he told me of all of his iconic travels back in his prime. Keep in mind, Mick was hiding downstairs around the corner during that process. And she stuck out like sore thumb because of her ginormous hiker’s backpack and Chaco sandals, looking American as ever.
I thought the coast was clear to signal her as he was walking out. But, he came back and nonchalantly questioned,
“Who is your friend?” Uh-oh. Our case could be blown. I played it cool and just explained to him that we were best friends traveling together and she tried to book this place but it was full, so she had to book a place in the mountains, in La Spezia. I continued to tell him that since Mar-Mar was in a better location and we would already be spending all two of our days there on the sea’s rocky coast, that we would dub Mar-Mar as our designated base camp. He nodded like it was no big deal, and assured me she was allowed in the apartment and didn’t need to be scared to hangout at the hostel or Bar O’Netto.
Whew. We made it. The operation was successful. And with that reassurance, we unpacked our things and settled in. This was when we discovered the balcony… The colorful buildings were stacked on top of eachother like legos amongst the cliffs.
After a dozen photos and long-sighs, we finally met our first roommates, some Kiwis. (Kiwi is another name for a New Zealander). And I love Kiwis. There’s a joke that there’s no one left on their island because they are all travelling. Seriously though, there’s only four-million Kiwis and, I swear, half of all backpackers are from New Zealand. I have concluded it is like a rite of passage, traveling the world, for Aussies and Kiwis.
Anyways, the Kiwis I met in Riomaggiore were Taegan and Hannah and what gems they were. All four of us, ended up going to the beach together, and while Mick and I swam a bit, the Kiwi girls sunbathed.
Ah, salt water, my first love. I don’t know what it is about the sea that makes me so incredibly happy but it just does it for me. The ocean, when swimming in it, makes me and my problems feel so small. There is nothing more humbling that nature herself giving it. Iridescent waves gleaming at my squinted-eyes and fish swimming around my feet, to the sound of seagulls singing in the breeze, with the sweet taste of salt on my sundried lips is my soul’s dearest aphrodisiac.
So understand that when I was standing waist-deep in the Riviera’s waters, I didn’t care that the water was freezing or that the rocks were cutting into my feet. I simply dove in, not thinking twice about it. For me, it was vital that Italy’s salty waters baptized me. While under the waves, I made sure my eyes stayed open, no matter the sting. And when I came up, I was in my childhood utopia, jagged cliffs being fought against the ocean.
Then, Mick zapped me back into reality, reminding me that I was wearing my watch still… I gasped and looked at it. Great. I just ruined my boyfriend’s Christmas gift to me.
After our swim, we all chitchatted; this is when I found out how insanely bold these Kiwi women were. They had been traveling for two months or so already and at the end of their travels, they would both move to different countries. Hannah was relocating to New York City and Taegan to Edinburgh. I found myself inspired and reenergized by their energy.
We decided to walk back and get lunch, but not before we stole some breathtaking pictures of the harbor.



After, we headed into Riomaggiore’s main street for some bruschetta and a round of Spritz. We talked for hours until Mick felt sick and headed back to the hostel to lay down. Meanwhile, the Kiwis and I had another round of laughs and Spritz. Soon it became brisk, so we decided to head in for a change of clothes. I checked on Mick, but she still wasn’t feeling up to par with the festivities my new friends and I were up for, which was more food.
The Kiwis and I went to dinner at a spot on main street and immediately started ordering. I had crab spaghetti which was good, but the French Riviera definitely had better, according to my memory. Nonetheless, Hannah ordered us a bottle of wine.
Now, when it comes to wines, I am a Pino Noir/ Cabernet Sauvignon kind of gal, so whites were always off the menu. As for rosé? Well, it was uncharted territory. On the other hand, this was Hannah’s drink of choice. Naturally, she was nervous about picking the right bottle for me to loose my rosé virginity to. This was important to her and I appreciated her for it. The pressure was on when the bottle go to the table. And Hannah made sure to conduct the taste test herself before I touched a glass. She had to make sure it was great, and she did. She nodded to the Italian server, giving him the okay to pour us our first glasses. Watching as I lifted my glass to my lips, Teagan and Hannah anxiously waited to hear my verdict of the wine. I took a sip. Mmmmm. I could get used to this. I smiled, in acceptance for rosé. Hannah sighed in relief. I was officially on the rosé train. This is not to be confused with my love of my deep red wines.
Taking the cork, I asked the Kiwis for a pen while I wrote the date, location, and the moment down on the cork. I explained to them both that I collect wine bottle corks and do this ritual with every single cork added. Hannah and Taegan thought it was charming.
We decided to get the tab and head back to hostel, to meet more people. (I checked on Mick again, but she was sound asleep). We had a lot of new roommates. A list that included three guys from Toronto, two guys from Alabama, and others, but they didn’t seem too keen on making friends. The guys wanted to go out to bar, and so we did.
Bar O’Netto was great. I tried my first Gin and Tonic there, which I loved! And Taegan and I shared a bottle of Cabernet. But, mostly we all just talked and laughed and talked some more. This is when I found out that Taegan was coming to Houston just three weeks later! We made plans to meet up and I told her I’d take her to Torchy’s Tacos. (She absolutely needed to try the queso, which would be her first-ever queso experience mind you). And for the first time ever, I let someone else write on my cork collection. Taegan wrote the memory portion for the cork, of the bottle of red we were sharing. It was a note to me, telling me she would see me in Houston.


I’ve said it before and I will say it again, I love Kiwis.
We ended the night by going to the harbor. Sitting on the edge of the cliff with the Kiwis and Alabamians was hilarious at first. Soon I felt myself resort into myself. I was detaching. As I stared at the glorious moon and the midnight waters, I felt my mind leave. I was hypnotized by the beauty of the night sky and dark ocean once again. It was one of those moments where silence was needed, to soak in the solitude of contentment, alone. I wished Mick was there, just her and I, because she understands me when I get lost in my thoughts. She understands the solace of silence. And feels it with me. Suddenly, I needed to leave. So I did just that. I wasn’t mad, I was just in a trance induced by Italy’s wonder.
Eventually, I found myself back at the hostel. I tiptoed alone across the tile floor, slipped into the little corner of bed Mick had left me, and went fast asleep.
What a first day in the Italian Riviera… Ciao!
xoxo,
J